The day I dropped my husband off at Heathrow T5 was the day after the faulty CrowdStrike update. It was BEDLAM in the terminal. I kissed him goodbye and rapidly went in search of the Elizabeth line. Advised by a helpful Heathrow employee to take a coach to Reading rather than the Tube, I made my way to Reading (in comfort, thank you National Express) and from there took an overground train to Moreton-in-Marsh. 

 

I booked my train from Reading online about 3 weeks prior and it was seemingly a pretty full train at that time, so was glad I didn't wait till the last minute. 
 

My accommodation in Moreton-in-Marsh was The Swan, run by a lovely staff full of Cotswolds advice and happy to store my lunch in the kitchen fridge. I ate at Raj Mahal across the street, which was excellent.
 

 

After a fabulous full English, I took off on the Monarch's Way. 

 

My only unpleasant incident of the whole trip took place right away, when an off-lead Alsatian named Carl decided I was the enemy and ran directly at me, pounced, teeth, growling etc. I came to no harm, but I was NOW surely awake. 

 

The path was through mostly open, flat fields with some cows, beautiful big oaks and good country walking to Longborough. I stopped briefly in Donnington, which was very pretty. I was too early to go to the Fox public house, but I had a long way to go, so trekked onto Stow. 

Stow was lively. Though very touristy, it was still before the kids were on summer holidays, so mostly older folks. Some fabulous charity shops here, and a cheese shop where I purchased a hunk of cheddar to supplement my picnic. I ate my lunch in St. Edwards Churchyard and completely missed the stunning church door! I had neglected to look ahead in the way of finding notes, before arriving. Fortunately, I made up for this error and my brother, who picked me up, at the end of my trip took me to Stow and the lovely door. We also visited the oldest inn in the UK, The Porch House for a fab lunch.

Lower Slaughter was another spot where I could've stayed longer, but at this point I was tired, and it was getting hotter. 

 

Finally, I reached Bourton. After 11 miles, I was hungry and inhaled a large helping of chips with salt and vinegar under a tree and made my way to my lodgings. The Lansdowne was LOVELY. By far the best of the places I stayed. Modern, comfortable and the service was excellent. I slept like a baby. 

 

 

Have you ever thought to yourself why did you bring something on a trip to not use it and it feels like it's weighing your pack down? Before this walk, I'd been to other places in the UK. I had been schlepping trekking poles around and hadn't used them once. I had also been wondering why I had exclusively packed long trousers and brought no shorts! Well, this morning showed me I had packed wisely. 

 

My first public footpath on the way out of Bourton-on-the-water was a slanted, uneven trail, with overhead stinging nettles on one side and thistle on the other. It was July, so the growth height was at its most epic. Both poles and long trousers were a must. 

 

The path travelled through farms, with cows and sheep in pastures and some sections of deep woods with old railway bridges and the river Windrush winding through. I made my lunch stop in Naunton. I made up for my error of the day prior and did not miss out on seeking out the Naunton Dovecote. There is a lovely spot by the river next to the Dovecote to eat your picnic. 

 

The rest of the way to Guiting Power was farm fields, some with shoulder-high crops that had I been a few inches shorter, would've been over my head! I stopped at The Cotswolds Guy for provisions and then onto the Hollow Bottom pub for a read and a pint. I didn't have lodgings in Guiting Power, so Walkers Britain arranged for a taxi which took me to Winchcombe, where I spent two nights. It was nice to be in the same spot for two nights. I had more food choices in a small town and didn't have to pack my case up - which I appreciated.

Winchcombe has an attractive winding row of buildings that climb up the high street. I visited the St Peter's Church twice, to meditate and to see the fabled alter cloth that is said to be connected to Henry VIII's first wife, Catherine of Aragon. I arrived after they had locked up for the night and was let in by a caretaker who had shown up to put out the rubbish bins. Such is a small town with trusting folks. I had the place to myself. 

 

 

I chose the longer of the two routes - because at this point, I was getting the hang of this walking thing. If you'd asked me on day one, I would've said the shorter route was definitely in my future, not the longer, but when I learned there were Abbey ruins and that there were going to be views to be savoured, I was in it to win it.

The taxi picked me up in the rain and dropped me back into Guiting Power. I would've held back and started later but had a taxi reservation. No matter - that's why I had the Gore-Tex raincoat packed too, right?

 

The woodsy and muddy section through the Farmcote estate led to a good section of road, then a longer bridleway where all I saw was my immediate surroundings. Eventually, though, things began to open up. The views got bigger and farther afield could be seen. There was one field of cows where I had my most funny moment. I'd just started down a spur trail and took out my phone to be sure I was on the GPS path and was aware I was not alone. Cows are curious and so down the trail two of them decided they were going too. The phone was swiftly put away and haste was made. 

 

Hailes Abbey was closed, as it was a Tuesday, so I took a peek around the chapel, had lunch and made my way across the fields into Winchcombe. I did get into Sudeley Castle and Gardens, the latter of which I highly recommend. There was a live raptor display the day I was there. The gardens are immaculately manicured, and I felt a bit cheeky sitting on a bench, covered in mud and sweat, and there's a good chance some cow poo, particularly as a few gorgeously dressed young women sat having their photos taken. 

 

 

In conclusion, I loved my trip. 

 

The one time I reached out to Walkers' Britain with a question, I was immediately helped. The GPS files and app were easy to use and the 52-page notes and wayfinding information were thorough. 

 

I never felt unsafe. There was a cell phone signal pretty much everywhere I travelled and a road never too far away. I enjoyed the solitude a lot. The walking was meditative, and I feel like I gave myself the greatest gift of time, space and natural beauty.